There's a moment in our conversation with our fellow grower Antonio that sums up perfectly what happens with so much of our food. He shows us two chestnuts: one big and glossy, the kind you see in shop windows, and another small, more modest one. And he says, without hesitating:
"We wouldn't take these even if they were free. Those go to market. At home it's always these sizes."
The ones they wouldn't take for free are the big ones. The ones they eat at home are the small ones. And when you taste them one after the other, like we did on the farm, you reach the same conclusion he did: "no comparison". In this article we explain how chestnuts are graded by size, why the market pays more for the big ones, and why people who live among chestnut trees so often choose the small ones.
How chestnut size is measured
A chestnut's size, its grade, isn't measured in centimetres but by counting how many chestnuts make up a kilo. The fewer chestnuts it takes to reach a kilo, the bigger they are. The UPOV reference classification is this:
| Grade | Chestnuts per kilo |
|---|---|
| Very large | 60 or fewer |
| Large | 61 to 80 |
| Medium | 81 to 100 |
| Small | 101 to 120 |
| Very small | More than 120 |
In the trade it gets even more precise, with ranges like 40/50, 50/60 or 60/70 chestnuts per kilo, and every packing house uses its own. What's the same everywhere is that big chestnuts fetch a higher price, while small ones sell worse or end up in industry, as flour or for peeling.
Why the market prefers big ones
Antonio puts it simply: people buy "with their eyes". A big chestnut looks better in the shop window, seems higher quality and is easier to peel and roast, because there's more flesh per chestnut. For street chestnut sellers, a big chestnut also makes a showier paper cone. The result is that the supply chain rewards size and throws out the rest. Antonio calls it "a deadly discard": a huge number of chestnuts get left out that, in terms of flavour, are among the very best.
Why the small ones get eaten at home
"We go for flavour."
It's an opinion shared by many chestnut growers, and there's a reason for it. A chestnut's size depends on several things:
- The variety. Some European chestnut varieties have large fruit, like Injerta or Roja, at between 55 and 80 chestnuts per kilo, and others have smaller fruit. Each has its own flavour.
- The number of chestnuts per burr. A burr with one or two chestnuts produces bigger fruit than one with three, which have to share the space.
- The year. With rain at the end of summer, chestnuts fill out. In a drought, they stay small. As Antonio says, "it depends on the year".
- Hybrids. Many new plantations use hybrid chestnut trees, crosses with Asian species that are more resistant to ink disease. According to a study on hybrid clones, 65% of them produce large or very large chestnuts.
There's some debate about how hybrids taste. Some growers describe the European chestnut, Castanea sativa, as having a more intense flavour, and hybrids as blander. It's growers' judgement, not a lab result, but it matches what Antonio says: size doesn't guarantee flavour, and often the biggest chestnut is the least tasty.
A word of caution about small ones
Not every small chestnut is a good one. Antonio himself admits that, in his experience, the ones that tend to have worms are the tiny ones, although big ones get them too. That's why lots of poor-looking small chestnuts get discarded at harvest. The key isn't choosing the smallest, but a chestnut that's firm, heavy for its size, shiny and free of holes, whatever its grade. We explain how to tell them apart in why chestnuts get worms and how to tell if they're good.
How to choose good chestnuts
- Heavy for their size. A light chestnut is usually dried out or empty.
- Firm when squeezed. If it gives or sounds hollow, toss it.
- With a natural shine. The shell of a freshly picked chestnut shines. A dull, wrinkled chestnut was picked a while ago.
- No holes or spots. Neither on the shell nor at the base.
- The size you'll actually use. Big ones if you want them to look good or peel quickly. Medium or small if you're after flavour and don't mind a bit more peeling.
What we've already seen with other fruit
Chestnuts aren't an exception. It happens with tomatoes, oranges, apples. The market has learned to reward what you can see, size, even colour and unmarked skin, and has pushed what you can taste into the background. People who live off the land eat differently: they keep what tastes best for home, even if it isn't the prettiest.
Frequently asked questions
Are large chestnuts lower quality?
Not necessarily. It depends on the variety, how they were grown and how fresh they are. But size is no guarantee of flavour.
What does grade 50/60 mean?
That there are between 50 and 60 chestnuts in a kilo. Those are very large chestnuts.
Are small chestnuts harder to peel?
A little, because there's less flesh per chestnut and the thin inner skin gets into more folds. Roasted and peeled while still warm, the difference is small.
Which chestnuts are best for roasting?
Fresh, firm, flavourful ones, whatever their size. Try to keep each batch a similar size so they roast evenly.
From the chestnut grove to your table
For Antonio, you choose a chestnut with your mouth, not your eyes. We're working with him on a way to bring his freshly picked chestnuts to your home. In the meantime, in Reserve your harvest you'll find the autumn fruit we pick the same day it ships. From the field to the box, and from the box to your home. That simple, that authentic.
Sources
- ADICAP. Guide to good practices in the cultivation, handling and marketing of chestnuts in Asturias (UPOV grades)
- Characterisation of chestnuts produced by hybrid chestnut clones
- Mundo Castaña. Chestnut varieties
- Campelo. Fresh chestnuts (commercial grades)
- Castañas La Serrana. Products (sativa vs. hybrids)
- Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. The chestnut, a fruit tree (Hojas Divulgadoras 23-24/78)
